Pahalgam

Pine valleys, the Lidder river and pony trails up to Baisaran and Aru.

Pahalgam sits where the Sheshnag and Lidder rivers meet, an hour of switchbacks past saffron fields and cricket-bat willow groves. It is the gentlest base in Kashmir: raft the Lidder, ride up to the alpine bowl of Baisaran, drive out to Aru and Betaab valleys, or simply sit by the water and do nothing at all.